DIFFERENT types of THREAD? What do I need? What should I use?
Video Overview & Insights
In this video I talk about different types of thread, the various choices and why you might choose one over another for your garments.
When I learned to sew in the 1970s, my mom said to use cotton wrapped polyester. Now I see that these are listed as quilting thread. Is this still good for basic machine garment sewing?
When I first found out that, just like fabric, thread is also available in different fibres - cotton, polyester, silk etc, my mind was blown and I wondered what I should use and if I NEEDED to match the thread type to the fabric!
In the time since I've been asked this a lot and the short answer is that it is your personal choice. There are different factors that can help you decide though.
What is the best serger thread?
When I started out I used whatever was on the shelf at the store, I didn't even consider there were choices other than colour!
The main thread types you've probably come across are
What a delight to watch your videos! I subscribed to your website a few months ago, and it is a treat for me to listen as you share your sewing experience/wisdom. Your love of sewing, your enthusiasm is a joy, and one that I have as well. I am a self-taught sewist, and often when I sit at the sewing machine, I become almost transfixed. Usually it is my stomach, making rumbling sounds, that alert me to the fact that, sometimes, hours have gone by, and I wasn't even aware of it. Again, thank you for sharing your passion, your love and joy of sewing with others. ❤. P.S. Your manicures are top notch!
• All-purpose Polyester
The work-horse, the most common one that we all use.
Next can we talk about Seger thread?
• Cotton
This natural fibre is the next most readily available and has more variations and types for you to choose from.
"A world without string is chaos." -R. Smuntz
• Linen
Another natural one that is most often used for hand sewing and decorative top-stitching, not many are available for sewing machines.
Total newbie. Only have my mom’s over 30 year old thread. Gotta get new thread. Thanks for your help 😊
• Rayons & Silks
This is one that you might choose to match to your garment if it's something like a sheer chiffon as silk and rayon threads are super-fine but still strong!
We have a plastic crisis, cotton all the way!
Hopefully this video helps you make more of an informed choice on your threads and gives some starting points on how to choose.
My main tip though is, find a brand you like and stick to it, stay away from the generic really cheap stuff, it has a nasty habit of snapping constantly!
What thread to use to sew cashmere?
What threads do you use and prefer? We can all do with some recommendations on a super awesome brand, let us know below!
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I am new sewer, and I can say that I experience very hard project, before starting anything I test fabric stich, as you often say!, and I have few time thread which Jamed make a mess, and I change the thread and it all going well! Didn’t understand why yet really but I know it does matter, so try first
and even take a free class!
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As a quilter and sewer I started using Aurifil ( Italian ) cotton threads ,and it was a recommended thread for rayons. I love it for everything now. Truly beautiful thread to use. Like you, I have numerous reels of polyester, & slowly they will be replaced. As a sewer of 60 years, thrift is no longer my main goal. It seems foolish to have an expensive machine, buy quality fabric, and then skimp on the thread or needles.
I love your teaching style, and there is always more to learn even after 60 years.
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What should i use if sewing crafts. Like on paper, cards?
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I sew with fabric extras and waste so the materials can vary heavily like mostly they are silk, silk satin, polyester satin, polyester, and some cotton and rayon. So it is probably better with polyester and test the brands or can I sew with cotton? I might not find cotton here but a question I have.
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When should you be concerned your thread is old? A certain number of years? Thanks!
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thread has a shelf life? So I've inherited some thread, probably 50-70 years old. Should I just throw it out?
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More User Perspectives
My understanding from my grandmother who made drapes and slip covers for a business during WWII til the late 70's she said if you are sewing silk do not use silk thread. Lol. This from the woman who told stories about drawing lines up the back of her stockings in the early 1940's
@dawnmariemasiello-cottrell7382Thank you.
@janetlawrence4324Men's shirts, the better quality ones are made with thin thread and small fine stitches, like in the cuffs. I love that look. Do you know what kind of thread that is?
@grrrl8521This is probably a silly question. I have been hesitant to try cotton thread only because I wonder if it will shrink in the first wash after sewing the garment? Do the individual fibers spun into the thread not shrink or contort the seams in any way?
@QuietWoodsWovenandKnitThis video being on the older side, I doubt I'll get a response...
But here it goes. What about waxed threads ? I bought a machine cause hand stitching is too long.
Can I use that on a machine or will it ruin the machine because of the wax ?
This was so helpful
@SpiffyPenguinGuterman i use but i msy try all round polyester great video thanks everlyn ❤
@julieharris-t5hThanks
@antoniokinsey4041I was busy with work and didnt sew or watch your videos and i missed you. Glad to be back. 😊
@littlepuppy101When I started sewing I cheaped out on way too much bad no-name thread and took me way too long to realize how much harder I was making things for myself, I thought thread breaking halfway through every other seam was just par for the course XD. Was only when I needed a pretty specific color for some topstitching that I could only find in one of the "good" brands and then realized halfway through that project that I hadn't broken a single thread that I realized I should really just be paying for the real stuff...
@HunterJEVery interesting video Evelyn, where I live it is difficult to have good tips when you buy thread.
@michelleeveille4435Having no idea about threads, I went and purchased about 4 spools of white Gutermann cotton thread, maybe 400m per roll. I am still going through all of it. However, I have discovered that it is definitely my preference for thread, if I can get the right colour. Barring that, Gutermann Sew-All will do.
I used to use whatever brand I could find, but the day I tried Gutermann I never went back. Just a totally different experience.
Also I like to sew vintage style garments, so the cotton thread is actually period-appropriate :P
I find with my Babyloc machine that I have to use the same exact thread in my bobbin as in my top thread or it skips stitches.
@AnnSchuster-u9mwish I knew about Gutermann years ago! I never knew the importance of strong thread. Cheap is not the way when it comes to sewing.
@sonji1I like Coats & Clark for garment and quilt sewing. It's readily available in lots of colors and reasonably priced. I like the overlock cones and use it as my general purpose and quilt piecing thread. I also like that the color I use to serge my garment matches the other seams. My 1st criteria is color and what I already have on hand and won't hesitate to use embroidery thread if it happens to match the garment. I also keep on hand a few staple colors in heavy duty for denim and canvas materials.
@creativitybycarilyn6634Fluff..ha ha...more like dust storm. I moved my sewing outside due to the high level of dust all aspects of the sewing process produce... and the negative effect to indoor air quality and health. It's not just fiber dust, but dye dust, and the related synthetic chemicals, which can include heavy metals. Seems organic undyed cotton thread is best, but then again, if you're using high synthetic fabrics, it wouldn't matter. I came to this video to learn more about other natural fiber threads, like linen, and more about which needles go with which thread, weight, etc..And the more I learn the more I only want to sew with natural fibers across the board. And to learn the art of natural dyeing.
@kricketkittyIs there somewhere you discuss what weight of thread to use? I love your videos!
@burnsdiana1I have some metallic thread - gutermann - and I use with a needle for metallic thread. However, it still seems to strip the thread after a few stitches. Have you any experience or tips and if so can you please do a video on this.
@sharonshortland6726What is the most durable thread and size to use for outdoor project?
@DLong-wp8suI have made a personal committment to try to be more 'green' and 'sustainable' in products I use. Part of that will be with sewing...trying to source more 'green and sustainable' consumables. Unfortunately, not EVERYTHING will be 'green and sustainable' but, it's about following that ethos where possible. In this day and age, I really doubt that anything I make today will still be in use in 25 years. So, the whole thing about 'thread rot'...shall that not be a problem with all cotton fibres? I mean, if I'm using cotton fabric, won't that, at some point start to degrade? They say that at landfills where a lot of clothing ends up, the cotton fabric will have degraded, but the polyethylene threads will still be there, like a 'forever material'. Another thing is cotton can be spun at home with a simple spinning wheel. Can the same be done with polyethylene material? Polyethylene coming from petroleum...what if we run out of petroleum? It would seem to me that while cotton thread is, today, more expensive...as a barrel of oil gets more difficult to obtain (read: expensive), there will surely come a point where the cost of production will become so high that the natural fibres would become the less expensive alternative.
@OutlawDressmakerShould you use the same thread in the bobbin as you use to thread the upper part of the machine
@jenniferbrotherton5723I have thoroughly enjoyed this video!.. Although I knew most of it, there is always something that you say to help us out..thank you so much! Cheers from Brisbane!
@cc83jc85Evelyn, speaking of the cotton thread and the fuzzies. Does this build up extra lint in the machine? Does it require cleaning more frequently. Thanks.
@Jacelyn5440Another comment: I heard an interview with Kenneth King, and he said that a lot of times his couture garments will be donated to a museum after the initial customer is finished with it. So he always uses polyester for his garments as it will last for a very long time.
@cynthiagilbreth1352I think it all depends on what you are sewing. For bags and home dec, I always use polyester thread no matter what the fabric content is. For fabrics that are mixed content, I will use either cotton or polyester, for topstitching, always cotton. For tailored shirts, I use Aurifil cotton. Shirts are generally topstitched quite extensively, so Aurifil, which is only 2 ply cotton, works quite well and will disappear into the seams. For quilting, I always use Aurifil or size 50 or 60 DMC for both piecing and actual quilting. For a Chanel style jacket, I use polyester for the seams and often will use silk or rayon embroidery thread for the quilting and hand sewing. I could go on and on, but as I said, it all depends.
@cynthiagilbreth1352As an aside, I have only one thread rule based on my personal experience. I always use cotton rather than silk thread sewing woven fabric. Since silk is much stronger than cotton, the stitches were pulled right of the hem. I always make the expensive mistakes. 😆
@tsezwiklove it, thank you!
@anna_tarapyginaI use moon or coats and moon thread for everything
@kittybrowningMy criteria for buying thread is color and weight. When I have a project, I take my fabric to JoAnn and get the best color match in the appropriate thickness. I thought that is what you were “supposed to do”. My sweet, sweet Momma was a stickler for color matching and so am I! I don’t think that my 1990s Sears Kenmore machine has ever noticed a difference in all the types/brands that I have, but I will be more attentive to this going forward.
Due to JoAnn’s bad financial situation (bankruptcy?), their inventory is extremely low right now so sometimes it’s been impossible to find a good color match.
what is the largest spool size/brand i can fit in a regular sowing machine? I cant seem to find any information on this. I don't want to use a seperate cone holder, just to fit it on my vertical or horizontal pin. Most i've heard is that the 500m Gutterman sew all fits.
@TheShellemilyCrayonYou are always sooo helpful! I so appreciate this really good info about thread and it makes sense. I’m gonna look at my thread stash and see which threads I want to continue sewing with. Thank you! 🪡🧵
@SimpleNaturePeacewhat type of thread can i use om a domestic neating machine
@ammaasante7100What thread should I use for a domestic industrial sewing machine?
@ammaasante7100I sewing canvas fabric with a thread to match but thread is breaking while in the Uben 2 singer sewing machine the machine is running but not sewing it’s driving me up the wall. I had it
@gayatrijohnstonVielen Dank für diesen Rat!
@DarkHunter-w5v